Dry skin, seasonal or otherwise.

What’s your problem?

As a skin care professional , people are always looking to me for advice on a variety of skin conditions. This time of year everyone seems to have the same complaint: dry and flaky. With little or no moisture in the air skin can get this kind of cruddy, sluggish look to it as the outer laters dry up. Dry skin is caused by lack of sebum, the skin’s natural oil. There is a difference in dry skin and dehydrated skin. While dry skin lacks oil,dehydrated skin is lacking in water. The sypmtoms are similar in dry or dehydrated skin. Often dehydrated skin is caused by external factors and can be easily and quickly improved by just drinking 8 glasses of water per day and avoiding dehydrating substances such as excessive alcohol or caffiene. Dry skin takes a little more work to make improvements, since the cause of truly dry skin is genetic, it’s a skin “type.” Fair-skinned people seem to be more likely than others to have dry skin, especially as they age.

One size does not fit all.

The thing about skin care that most people don’t understand is that it isn’t an exact science. Every single person has a different reaction to skin care products and regimines. Your skins ability to repair itself can depend on things such as, diet, environment, allergies, medications, even heritity. I always encourage clients to try different things and combinations to see what their skin likes. Whenever I try a new product or routine on my skin I always give it at least a week or two and see how my skin reacts before I make a decision on the product. Now if you have a severe reaction or irration then of course you’d want to discontinue whatever that potion is immediately. If you have underlying health issues or conditions that may have an effect on your skin, you should consult your doctor for severe skin problems. If you search the internet for dry skin you get about a hundred of the same articles. And every year about this time you’ll see lots of advice in “beauty” magazines that all say about the same thing…no hot baths, use your moisturizer…go see your derm…blah blah…I’m trying to give some more specific remedies that I’ve actually tried or that I have seen really work on my clients.

Dry Skin symptoms and treatments.

If you are a naturally dry skin-type your skin will stay dry for long periods of time or all day after washing. Prolonged bouts of excesive drynes in the winter months probably leave you with a chapped angry look that you don’t find necessarily attractive. A moisturizer or lotion that has an thick, occlusive quality will help hold moisture in but in a lot of cases, will feel too think and gunky. I recommend my clients use 302 Body Treatment Intensive lotion (can be used on face or body). It’s a little thicker than the 302 Recovery Lotion but moisturizes without the “spackle” quality that a lot of heavy moisturizers have. It also has a yummy citrusy-minty smell that’s very light. If you still feel that is not enough and need more moisturizing , I recommend coating the skin with a thin layer of Jojoba oil after cleansing in the evenings. You can usually find it at the health food store in the skin care section or sometimes in drug stores. Don’t use so much that you could fry an egg in the oil slick on your forehead! Just a dime size amount on your entire face is plenty. Applied nightly after cleansing the skin can help soften the skin and hold in moisture at the same time. If you feel too oily or slippery after you apply it just blot your face with a tissue. Doing this nightly for a few weeks during the winter or just when your skin is overly dry is a good way to get through the frozen months with your skin still looking subtle. Another option would be to mix a few drops of Jojoba in your hand with one pump of 302 Recovery Lotion or 302 Body Treatment and apply it to the face when you are feeling too dry. I would also recommend a light exfoliation with the ultrasound machine for dry skin in the winter. And I emphasize “light”, just enough to get rid of a tiny bit of dead skin on the surface so that the skin can more easily absorb products applied for moisurizing. Also the Ultrasound treatment provides a deep penetration of a serum into the skin using sonophoresis. For someone with dry skin an infusion of this type using a non-acid Vitamin C serum can give the skin a nice boost of moisturizing. For experienced 302 users, a Signature Vitamin B Treatment will increase blood flow and really perk up skin that has been unresponsive to moisturizers. The vitamin b treatment drastically stimulates circulation and boosts metabolic activity in skin for up to a week afterward. (This treatment is not recommended for clients who have any kind of inflamation or acne present.)

Oily Skin Symptoms and Treatment

Now you naturally oily skin types are a whole different story. If your skin is naturally oily, usually when you wash your face in the morning you end up oily before lunch and your one of those people who is needing to powder your nose all the time…This can be an especially hard thing to deal with in the winter because even though the weather has you feeling dry applying more moisture can end up clogging your pores since the pores tend to be a little bigger in oily skinned individuals. Clogged pores just lead to acne eventually, which oily skin types are prone to enough already.

Oily skin is actually a blessing in my opinion. It means you will end up with less wrinkles in the long run, so I don’t like the idea of just drying up the oil. What you need to do is get your skin functioning correctly again. I recommend staying away from all exfoliating acids such as alpha or beta hydroxy. Benzoyl peroxide is another one to stay away from. In the long run they’ll do you more harm than good. If you are oily and have no acne breakouts I would recommend using 302 Recovery Lotion for a moisturizser as needed. I say “as needed” because many oily skin types use too much moisturizer. Only use it if you feel or look dry, this may be every day or may not. While Recovery Plus is designed for any skin type, oily people tend to love it’s light, gel-like texture that soaks in without leaving any slippery feeling. Another good product for oily skin types is 302 Calming Mist. It’s a calming spray that is moisturizing and soothing. You can use it in combination with Recovery Plus Lotion or by itself depending on how much moisture you need.

Acne and Dry Skin

Sometimes in the winter, even though you are feeling dryer than normal you find your face breaking out even worse. And you might notice more of what I call “underground” acne. That’s when you get those mean, painful, cyst-like pimples that sometimes don’t even come all the way to the surface, they just sit there and look red and swollen and miserable. Sound fun? These can mean the skin isn’t function normally. The skin is an organ and has it’s own systems and functions just like your kidneys would. If somethings not functioning correctly it tends to look sick or inflammed. Those “underground” pimples, I believe in some cases, are a result of an infected and impacted sebaceous (oil) gland combined with a build up on the surface of too many dead, dry skin cells. Often the whole mess is compounded by an evil hormone of some kind… whether it be the garden variety female once-a-month thing or good old fashioned stress. So what’s a girl (or guy) to do?

If you are acne-prone or if you have current acne breakouts I would suggest Recovery Lotion (RX), which has a similar texture and feel as Recovery Plus but has some added calming and soothing ingredients. Also the use of 302 Acne Mist is a nice thing to add to your routine if you have acne, no matter what time of year it is. This spray used twice a day on bare clean skin has an outstanding result on acne. It contains Epigallocatechins (I didn’t even try to sound that one out!) that come from green tea and have been found to provide an anti-bacterial effect equivalent to 4% Benzoyl Peroxide. It also contains natural sapponins which reduce discomfort and redness and enzymes which reduce or even eliminate the formation of pimples! It also has a light moisturizing effect as well. This is by far one of my favorite 302 products.

If you have oily and/or acneaic skin and are having increased dryness in the wintertime, a little exfoliation will help also. Use a facial brush once a day or every other day when washing your face instead of a wash cloth. A light, even scrubbing with a brush will help get the skin completely clean, while removing any debri like dead skin so that moisturizers can soak in more effeciently. An Ultrasonic facial as mentioned earlier with an infusion of vitamin C will add a nice boost of light moisture and help the skin look more alive during the winter months. For acne sufferers, an additional infusion of Vitamin A serum with the ultrasound device will help with breakouts without over-drying the skin. A great non-drying spot-treatment for acne is 302 Ointment-rx, a natural, fragrance free, neutral ointment barrier cream designed for burns, rashes and open wounds.

Nutritional and Medical Considerations

Eating a balanced diet that includes vegetables (especially yellow and orange ones for the vitamin A), fruits, seeds and nuts and eating quality protein from vegtable sources and Increasing your intake in raw foods can show a significant improvement in dry skin conditions. Fish oil and flax seed which contain Omega-3 fatty acids are great for all the connective tissues in your body including your skin. And while I love my potato chips or some good ole french fries, oils that are heated either in processing or cooking are proven to have a destructive effect on the skin, so try to limit those fried foods. They are yummy but they are bad for the rest of your body too, moderation is key.



I have tried many products over the years and found many that work and many that don’t. Clients ask me all the time about specific products they have bought or are thinking about purchasing and I’m always happy to weigh in with my opinion based on what I know about the ingredients of a product. I try not to pay too much attention to the actual marketing of any product since lets face it, they all claim to be miraculous! I try to do as much research as I can on the ingredients and delivery system of the skin care products I use or am thinking about using.
If you’d like to pick my brain…just give me a call!

You can find more information about me and my business at:
http://www.skinessentialswichita.com/

Fact: You are 20% more beautiful than you think...

You’re 20% more beautiful than you think…

Now this is not just my opinion.

This statement is actually based on scientific research. I learned this recently while reading The Beauty Prescription: The Complete Formula For Looking and Feeling Beautiful by Debra Luftman, M.D. & Eva Ritvo, M.D.
This book which is written by a Beverly Hills Dermatologist and a South Beach Psychiatrist, really had a lot of eye-opening tid-bits of information in it. According to these two physicians, women view themselves 20% less attractive than others perceive them. “Many people stand before the mirror as though they’re having a mug shot taken. There’s none of the personality, fire, or swagger that they exhibit in the real world. Your reflection is simply not the whole you. Others also see your charisma, wit, kindness, empathy, intellect, talent-whatever makes you special.” In other words the world sees you as more than the sum of your parts.

Evidently this book was a collaboration of two friends, a Dermatologist and Psychiatrist. While they practiced different specialties they found they were treating the same patients with the same concerns and found a powerful connection between self-esteem and physical appearance. They noticed when their patients received help in one area, they improved in the other.

The premise of The Beauty Prescription is the difference between “Innate Beauty” and “Evolving Beauty”. Innate beauty refers to beauty as a genetic purpose, to send signals to potential mates that one is healthy and able to bare children. The book also talks about study after study showing how “beautiful” people are often times more successful and tend to live better and longer lives. One study showed that the brain’s “reward circuitry” actually lit up on an MRI when young men viewed images of attractive female faces!

Just when I read enough about “Innate Beauty” to feel like the genetic cards were stacked against most of us, I got to the part about “Evolving Beauty”. This part of beauty is about how as our brains change with age and experience they are able to be “reprogrammed” as to what we find beautiful and attractive. They suggest that when you know and love who you are as a whole person and when you feel confident about yourself and your choices, it will automatically effect your physical appearance. Outer beauty influences your health, happiness, social status and success, and vise versa. If you look good you feel good, if you feel good you look good!

I enjoyed the fact that this book is packed with real advice on recognizing inner beauty and true wellness. They state that the purpose of the book is to come up with a new standard of self-worth that goes beyond physical beauty. The best part is the “beauty-brain” loop. You are who you think you are. You see yourself as you see the world. If you don’t think your beautiful, just look around you and see the beauty in life and in turn, you will be beautiful! I love books with little sidebars to read along the way and this one has “Beauty Busters”, which were little myths about beauty, mental health and cosmetic medicine. There are also some great quotes from prominent women, celebrities and beauty biz insiders.

Ok, I do have to mention that I’ve read many books on the subject of “beauty” and a lot of them are filled with “tests” to find your “true skin type” or your “real age”. Then they tend give you the same old lists of regimens and products that seem to be regurgitated by every single dermatologist that decided to write a book. This book has very little of that, it does have some practical tips on sunscreen and nutrition which are great. Unfortunately there is a small section on “shopping at the beauty counter with with Dr. Debra”. Once again I was disappointed to see almost all over-the-counter products, most of which are packed with synthetic ingredients and preservatives not to mention harsh exfoliating acids. Having tried an amazing amount of the products listed in the book, I will concede that while these products may not be the root of all evil, I am not a fan of them. It may be a while till the dermatological book writing circuit realizes there are many more natural and non-inflammatory methods of taking care of the skin.*

So now that I’ve shared my humble opinion on The Beauty Prescription, my professional advice is: read it! You will find it refreshing and empowering!



The Beauty Prescription can be found on Amazon

* To learn more about me, my services and products, visit my website www.skinessentialswichita.com

Oprah and Dr. Oz's Take on Beauty

There are so many opinion’s out there on what products to use on your skin and what treatments to get and the options really run the gamut. You can pay just about any price and never really know what you’re getting till your money is already spent. It’s hard to know who to believe sometimes even when you are a self-described “expert” like me!

This week Oprah ran a show with her resident expert on health, Dr. Mehmet Oz. I am a big fan of Dr. Oz because he has a way of explaining health issues that really get right to the point and give you the information you need to know with just enough technical and scientific information so that you’re aren’t completely bored at the same time.

The show titled, “Dr. Oz: Science of Beauty”, contained a lot of good advice about nutrition and the skin. For instance consuming vitamin a, b and c to turn back the clock and using niacin and licorice extract to help with sunspots. Dr. Oz also recommended many foods for skin health on the show. "Avocados, soybeans and nuts all contain biotin, an essential vitamin for healthy skin," he says. "A lack of biotin has been known to cause dermatitis—swollen, itchy or extremely dry skin." Add salmon for skin elasticity, pomegranates to help produce more collagen and keep the skin looking young, and plenty of tomatoes. "Studies have shown that Lycopene in tomatoes can protect your skin from aging by preventing sunburns," Dr. Oz says. "The most important thing with tomatoes is to make sure they're with oil. If you heat them up and mix them with oil, that's called pasta sauce."

I was impressed with his simple explanation of acne and how a pimple is formed. I think most people don’t know that. He basically described a pimple as excess oil trapped in the hair follicle that builds up and becomes infected. I agree with his advice on not popping a pimple as well…most of the time it makes them worse, causes more redness, inflammation and further infection.

So many of my clients ask me about under-eye bags and circles. That is such a tough problem to address for most women, and I think Dr. Oz had a very good explanation of what they are how they can be treated. “Everyone has natural fat around the eyes,” Dr. Oz explains. "It cushions the eye so if you get hit, it protects the eye," he says. When people develop long-term under-eye bags, it's usually because that fat begins to herniate. "The fat oozes out and starts to stick [under the eyes] because of gravity."

If your under-eye bags come and go when you're sleep deprived, eye creams or cucumber slices can help. But Dr. Oz says the only true solution for long-term bags is plastic surgery. "Eyes are the first place you really see aging, and it's probably the safest [invasive] plastic procedure that there is," he says. "But I don't want you all running out to get it, because I think across the board women are more worried about the bags under their eyes than the men who love them are."

Now I know Dr. Oz has got a new book to sell and while I’m a HUGE Oprah fan, I disagreed with many items on the show….You don’t need a Harvard-trained Dermatologist or a Visia Complexion Analysis System to find out if your skin is healthy. The Dermatologist on the show, Dr. Susan Evans, recommended many over the counter and drug store products which usually contain a large amount of synthetic ingredients and preservatives and not too many actual active ingredients. While I agree that skin products don’t have to be expensive to work, I don’t agree that just any product that claims to have vitamin A or C in it will improve the skin. Some formula’s that advertise these ingredients have a very small amount in them and also are constructed out of very large sized molecules that cannot absorb into the skin. Many vitamin C products, like the ascorbic acid they mentioned on the show, can be very inflammatory and aren’t for everyone. Especially people with sensitive skin, they can often exacerbate the problem and create an inflammatory cycle for people with acne.

I was also disappointed that most of the anti-aging recommendations made by both Dr. Oz and Dr. Evans were for strong acid products and chemical peels and laser treatments. These are again, all inflammatory ways of caring for the skin and can result in further damage and visible wrinkles. And the advice to use gel sunscreen on someone who has acne seemed strange to me when there are so many good mineral sunscreens on the market that work so much better for both sun protection and controlling break-outs.

So there is my “expert” opinion on what Oprah’s “experts” had to say. The bottom line is, research what you are using on your skin before you use it. Don’t fall for the advertising…ask someone who has used it before, what was their response to the product or treatment. I only use products and treatments that I have personally used on a regular basis and believe in their results. I do have a few product lines for sale, but I am not in the retail business to get rich or I would invest in a huge inventory. Instead, the products I carry are more of a service to my clients to support the treatments and advice I am giving on skin health. I carry mostly testers and samples and then you can order the product if you like it.

To learn more about me, my services and products, visit my website www.skinessentialswichita.com

Visit http://www.oprah.com/slideshow/oprahshow/20081023_tows_beautybook/1 to see the entire content of the show “Dr. Oz the Science of Beauty” There is more to read about there such as bad breath, feet and hair issues! Oh and sorry but there is also no cure for cellulite...damn!

Dr. Oz’s book is called You: Being Beautiful co-written by Dr. Michael Roizen and yes…I plan to read it!

Eyelash Extensions - Your Questions Answered

I'm always getting phone calls and questions about eyelash extensions. They are a fairly new phenomenon in my part of the country so there are alot of details and instructions to know.

One thing that is often asked is why are they so expensive? "Can't I just go get a $20 eyelash job at my corner nail salon?" Well, I suppose you could, and judging from what I've seen from lesser priced establishments, the question should really be why are they so cheap? Are they licensed and trained to perform a delicate procedure on your eyelids? Are they using safe and effective products? How many days can you expect them to last?

Most bargain-priced eyelash jobs last anywhere from a few days to a week. Typically they are using the same false eyelashes you can buy at a drugstore with the same temporary glue you can apply on your own. I've even seen some jobs where the eyelashes were applied with hair glue which is sticky and rubbery and very obviously visible and unattractive in my professional opinion.

At Skin Essentials I use only NovaLash adhesive.

NovaLash is the ONLY lash extension product that is:

•AEWCA-approved •American made – Pharmaceutical grade •Physician-formulated •Made in the USA in accordance with FDA recommendations for formaldehyde content

Most of the leading brands of lash extension adhesives tested by the AEWCA were found to contain toxic and carcinogenic irritants such as formaldehyde. Many untested industrial-grade adhesives (commonly used in auto manufacturing) enter the US and European market through China and Korea. These Asian-produced adhesives are branded in the US and marketed as "American" brands.

Because the eye area is one of the most sensitive parts of the body, the NovaLash team of physicians and scientists formulated the first formaldehyde-free, medical-grade lash extension adhesive (patent pending). Their adhesive is manufactured and delivered free of formaldehyde as confirmed by testing under EPA method TO-11A/8315HPLC-UV.

For more information on NovaLash products, you can visit them on the web at www.novalash.com

As far as everything else you want to know...take a look at my F.A.Q.......
-Pam Spillman, Owner, Skin Essentials

Frequently Asked Questions

What are Eyelash Extensions?

Eyelash Extensions are a totally new way to extend the length and thickness of your eyelashes. They are applied on a hair-by-hair basis to your own lashes for a totally natural look. All you have to do is close your eyes and relax. When you open them you’ll have gorgeous, natural looking, long eyelashes!

How long do they last?

When properly applied, lashes can last up to two months or more. Touch-ups are recommended after initial full set application to replace any lashes that might have fallen off. For best results touch-ups are recommended every two weeks. For extra-thick extensions or for long-term wear (more than three months) use of an eyelash conditioner product is recommended to keep your lashes extra healthy and strong.

How do I care for my Lash Extensions?

Avoid getting your eyelashes wet for the first 24 hours after the application. This allows the glue to set.
Care must be taken not to rub eyes, or scratch. It is very important not pull on your eyelash extensions as this can result in loosing your natural eyelash.
Only use water based products on the eye area, any creams, eye makeup removers, lotions, or cleansers containing oils can loosen the bond of the adhesive.
Regular touch-ups are the best way to care for your lashes. These appointments allow the lashes to be carefully cleaned and more lashes to be applied to keep a fresh, full look.

Can I add mascara to Lash Extensions?

Use of mascara on your extensions may shorten their life-span. You may however wear mascara on your bottom eyelashes

How much do Lashes cost?

The initial application of your eyelashes is $250 and can take up to 2 hours.
Touch-ups every two-weeks are $45 and last up to 45 minutes. Extended touch-ups beyond a two-week period start at $60
Never attempt to remove eyelash extensions yourself. Removal of extensions is free of charge.

For the lashes nature should have given you…
Professional training and experience make all the difference!
Skin Essentials @ Clifton Square
316-250-0287
www.skinessentialswichita.com

Are you being mislead by cosmetics advertising?

Just the Essentials...

Did you know?

Neither cosmetic products nor cosmetic ingredients are reviewed or approved by the FDA before they are sold to you.

The FDA cannot require companies do safety testing of their products before marketing.

There is no regulation that says a cosmetic has to have proof that their product lives up to it's advertised results.

Are you being mislead by Cosmetics Advertising?
The huge number of things we are told about skin care and other beauty concerns is nothing less than astounding. That's why, when you begin thinking in terms of reality, facts, and balanced information, it is important to ignore the baseless, unfounded claims that are constantly bandied about in the guise of serious information. You may have run into the following terms and sales pitches for myriad skin-care and makeup products. These come-ons entice purchasers, even though they are vague or illogical.

"Soothing botanicals"
Botanicals is simply another name for plants, such as herbs and flowers, or plant extracts in the form of oils or juices. Is any of that soothing? There are definitely some soothing botanicals, such as green tea, kola extract, willowherb, bisabolol, licorice root (glycyrrhetinic acid), and burdock root to name a few. But there are also a great many natural ingredients, from lemons to strawberries, lavender oil, and jojoba, that can be problematic for lots of skin types, either as irritants or because they can clog pores. I can't tell you the number of products I've found that make claims about being good for sensitive skin, even though they contain a host of these irritating ingredients.

"Superficial lines"
Watch out for the word "superficial"; it is a powerful tool when used in cosmetics advertising. "Superficial lines" really refer to the temporary, transient lines caused by dryness, not sun damage (sun-damaged wrinkles are hardly superficial). Most products could make elaborate claims about smoothing superficial wrinkles and they would not be lying to you. Superficial wrinkles go away when you put on any moisturizer, and that is wonderful. But—and I repeat, but—superficial wrinkles are not the ones you are worried about. Permanent wrinkles, like laugh lines, furrows between the eyes and on the forehead, and expression lines, are not eliminated by a moisturizer unless it contains irritants that temporarily swell the skin. The word "superficial" is misleading because it doesn't really refer to the lines and wrinkles women are most concerned about.

"So advanced, it's patented"
Patent law just means that the company was able to show a formula or ingredient was in some way unique. It can also establish that an existing ingredient or formula has a unique use. None of that has anything to do with efficacy. A company could patent a terrible formula or a good formula; an erroneous or verifiable claim; as long as it's unique—that's all a patent means. The patent is simply about who can use or sell the formula or ingredient, or who can make a specific public claim about the use of a formula or ingredient. Most major cosmetics companies own thousands of patents, but that doesn't tell you anything about how advanced or mediocre those patents are.

"Just for your ultra-delicate eye area"
The advertiser may want you to use the eye cream only around your eyes, which means you have to buy a face lotion separately, yet the ingredients of these products are rarely different enough to warrant the extra expense and rarely have any special formulary function specific to the eye area. There is no reason an eye cream can't be used on the face or the face lotion can't be used around the eyes. The only time a special eye cream would be necessary is when the skin around the eyes is different from the skin on the rest of the face, which may require a more or less emollient moisturizer, but that's a different issue from the need for an eye cream.

"Visible lift with proven results"
The study mentioned in this ad doesn't say what the improvement was based on. A comparison to another product? To one side of the face that was stripped bare with alcohol? It also doesn't comment on who made the assessment about the improvement. If it was the company's own appraisal, they clearly had reason to notice that the skin looked better. Claims like these are meaningless, but sound great.

To the cosmetics industry a wrinkle signifies a pot of gold. So do liver spots, dry skin, and gray hair. People have tried all sorts of concoctions for centuries , even millennia to reverse the signs of aging. Today’s arsenal of chemicals, though, is unique. Some products may actually work. The trick is to know which may be based on scientific evidence and which are just fantasies. Consulting a licensed professional who has studied and continued to study cosmetics and their ingredients can prevent you from wasting money on products that either don’t work, or just aren’t worth it.

Concerned about what you are spending your money on in the cosmetics isle? Want to know what really works? You wouldn’t eat something without knowing what it was. Don’t you want to take the same care with what you put on your face? I choose only professional skincare products that I’ve personally researched and believe in their results. Call me to find out about simple things you can do to improve your skin, without wasting your money.

Pam at Skin Essentials.
316-250-0287
www.skinessentialswichita.com