Eyelashing gone wrong

Sorry but I just had to share this.
I'm constantly being asked why I charge so much for eyelash extensions when there are so many places out there doing it for much, much less. Well I usually politely tell them that I set my prices to what my time and experience are worth. (I also kinda have to wonder if some of these cheap places are just using slave labor, I mean doing eyelash extensions is alot of work and I feel really bad for those not getting paid adequately for it!)
Here's a picture for those looking for the ultimate eyelash deal. Sometimes you really do get what you pay for. I took this picture of client who had extensions applied for a family members wedding. She was getting her hair done for the event and another stylist at that particular salon offered to apply eyelash extensions for $30. Great deal right? She liked the look but a few days later they started to become uncomfortable and she called her salon to make an appointment to remove the lashes. They not only told her that they don't remove lashes, (what?) they also told her to just soak her eyelashes in baby oil to get them off. (Please don't put baby oil on your eyes people!) She tried her best to remove them, but some just wouldn't come off. She came to see me for a facial and I removed what was left of these extensions. They were single extensions and there were massive amounts of them applied in "piles" or "clumps" using ALOT of strong adhesive. It took about 15 minutes of soaking them in a strong solvent for me to be able to remove them.
Here is a photo of what they looked like when she came in:

You may have to zoom to see how clumped these poor lashes were. Notice the sparseness of the rest of the eyelashes. Trying to remove them with baby oil of course doesn't really break the bond of the glue, therefore there is a lot of pulling which results in the natural eyelashes just being pulled out.

My client was thankful to finally have them removed completely, since her eyes were becoming very irritated from trying to get them off on her own. She really regrets having done the service and felt really abused by the particular salon she went to since they didn't tell her what she was really getting into and then didn't help to fix the problem in the end. She's now using Latisse to try and recover the growth of her lashes and get them healthy again.

Notice I am not naming the particular salon that applied these lashes, they know who they are and it's not my job to give them bad press. I would encourage anyone who wants to provide eyelash extensions professionally to get the proper training needed. Experience and training do make a very big difference when it comes to this service.

Cosmetic Filler Injection can lead to blindness?

Whoa! Just read this little tidbit from Skin Inc. Magazine. Freaked out? uh yeah...
I do not partake in fillers and don't judge those who do BUT If you get injections please do your research too and make sure you know for sure what you are getting into.

Study: Cosmetic Filler Injections Can Cause Retinal Blockage Leading to Blindness

Posted: October 19, 2012

A study conducted by a team of Korean researchers has revealed that cosmetic filler injections can cause a dangerous retinal blockage that can lead to blindness and other serious conditions.

The American Journal of Ophthalmology has published a report  from Sung Wook Park and a team of researchers with Seoul National University’s Bundang Hospital that evaluated 12 consecutive patients with retinal artery occlusion, which is a blockage in one of the small arteries that carry blood to the retina, caused by cosmetic facial filler injections. 

The team concluded that cosmetic filler injections into the glabellar region or nasolabial fold can cause retinal artery occlusion. Iatrogenic ophthalmic artery occlusion is associated with painful blindness, a thin choroid, brain infarction (an ischemic stroke) and poor visual outcomes particularly when autologous fat is used.

Ophthalmic examination and systematic brain magnetic resonance imaging, they noted, should be performed in patients with ocular pain after such injections.

Source: http://www.skininc.com/skinscience/physiology/174981081.html?utm_source=newsletter-html&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=SI+E-Newsletter+10-24-2012

Is keeping up your appearance a declaration of feminism?

I read this article in Harpar's bazaar:
Looking better at 45 than 25.

The author, Elizabeth Wurtzel argues that Self-improvement is a matter of self-respect. And she doesn't just mean getting a Harvard education. She's talking about keeping up your appearance and combating what she called "slovenliness" . "The current state of slovenliness is a sign of a nation in decline and of despairing distaff population."

You can't take a "fashion" magazine too seriously anyhoo...I honestly look at it for the pictures of all the pretty clothes and cool makeup looks. I try my best to look good. I do it because it makes me feel better about myself and on some level for artistic expression, but feminism?  I don't know, that's a stretch. (And I certainly don't aspire to look like the women in this magazine!). Now I'll admit sometimes I see folks out in public who have thrown in the towel but who am I to judge...maybe they are just having a really bad week? Is what you wear and how you do your makeup a reflection on the state of your life, your values or a reflection on the condition of our country?

What do you think?

Is your spray tan safe?

ABC News/ Good Morning America recently aired a story regarding the safety of spray tanning.
The news media did not differentiate between data that was obtained for automated spray booths and for hand-held turbine devices. The hand-held turbine devices are considered to be safe and do not need/require many of the safety precautions that the automated spray booths require.


The study that was used in the report presented by the media was done by the European Commission Scientific Study on Consumer Safety:
http://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_048.pdf

Spray tanning technique

The techniques that should be used are designed to minimize dihydroxyacetone (DHA) exposure to the clients. The suggested treatment time consists of less than two minutes of spraying with approximately 50 mL of product. The spray pattern should be designed to push the overspray to the ground, minimizing it and, recommend using an extraction fan if you do not have proper room ventilation.

Products

The report by the European Commission shows that high levels of DHA should not be inhaled by either the technician or the client. Most “rapid-developing” products that are on the market have active ingredient levels of 14-22%, which are considered too high for inhalation.

The U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA)

DHA (the same active ingredient in every self-tanner, spray tan or sunless tanning treatment) has been approved for decades by the FDA for cosmetic use. As there have been no studies on inhalation and exposure done directly by the FDA (even though the European Commission has done studies), they advise that the products should not be used in the mucous membranes.(*Source: Skin Inc. Magazine June 18, 2012)

Skin Essentials uses a hand-held turbine device for sunless tanning and we use extraction fans. We also have all suggested safety items available to our clients: nose filters, eye covers, undergarments and lip balm.

True Story: Brazilian Bikini Waxing

Since I became an Esthetician this is probably the service people ask me about the most! I should say that I personally do not offer or perform this service, however my co-worker Kelly offers it and it is starting to become popular. 

Here is an actual interview of a client's experience with Brazilian Bikini Waxing Service. I purposely found someone who had not had this done at Skin Essentials, since I wanted a true, unbiased opinion/testimonial.

I would love to hear any words of wisdom or tips and tricks from anyone out there who partakes in this type of waxing.

If you could just tell me a little bit about your brazilian wax experience:Was it in Wichita? 
    I've had Brazilian waxing at numerous places, including Wichita.      A few towns in California, another in Kansas and one in Minnesota.
What was it like?
    The 1st time was terrible....I swore I would never do it again.    When I say terrible....it was because it took almost 2 hours and some areas were rewaxed.  OUCH!   Not a good sign when that happens.  A year went by and I went to a salon that was recommended.  I ended up going there for 2 years, about every 4-6 weeks for "maintenance"..  That woman could get every stitch of hair in 13 minutes.  She and her products were gentler and they worked. 
What did you love about it?  
    I loved the results.   When the hair started to grow back, it was finer, which is great since mine is so dark and coarse.  I can get ingrown hairs, red bumps and a rash from shaving.   When done right, waxing almost eliminated those problems.  It never will truly go away, but it is unnoticeable enough for me to confidentially wear a swimsuit.
What did you hate about it?
    The lady at the first place (and later when I moved to KS) didn't know what she was doing and the wax was cheap....I am apparently sensitive to certain waxes and not all of them actually work (as in, removing the unwanted hair).   Because I am a brunette, my hair is coarse and harder to remove.  Certain waxes are better than others.  It does take a few times to be comfortable with some of the odd positions, so be prepared for that.
Do you regret doing it? And why?
    I do not regret it, even the bad experiences.  I learned what is good for my skin and what I should stay away from.Or would you do it again and why?    If I find someone where I live now (OK), I will definitely do it again.  Its a MUST for the summertime, but if I kept it up throughout the year, the hair grows back at a slower pace, is finer, and by the next summer, my life is easier.  
How did the experience make you feel? (for example, embarrassed, scared, relieved..etc)
    I was embarrassed the first few time because of the positions you have to sometimes get in.  But if you want it done right, it is necessary.  Even if the wax is better, and the person knows what they are dong, it is going to hurt.  There is no way around that.  Do research before you book an appointment (and take a Motrin before you  go).  It's worth it!

The good news about sugar-damaged skin

I've been hearing all the news about banning soda. Some folks are pretty upset about it. I don't know if an actual "ban" is needed, I'll leave the rule-making up to the rule-makers.
I can tell you this:
Large amounts of sugar, like what's in your soda, are giving you wrinkles and acne.
It's just a fact.

Sugar damages collegen and elastin (the stuff that makes your skin firm, plump and keeps you looking young) through a process called Glycation. The sugar in your bloodstream attaches to proteins to form new molecules that damage adjacent proteins. Like a domino effect. Once collegen and elastin are damaged in this fashion they become dry and brittle, causing wrinkles and sagging. Not pretty.

I was told in beauty school that the sugar-acne connection was an old wives tale.
Well call me an old wife (not to my face) because I'm living proof that you are what you eat.
It's also scientifically well-known that one of the symptoms of inflammation in the body is acne. The way acne looks in and of itself lends itself to inflammation...red, swollen, gross....
Ingesting foods that raise your blood sugar quickly (like soda) causes your body to produce too much insulin (to bring your blood sugar back down) and too much insulin will cause inflammation which can appear as acne and lots of other unpleasant health issues like a lot of conditions that end in "itis" or "osis". Also not pretty.

The good news is it's never too late to start turning back the clock on sugar-damaged skin.
Replace your soda with green or herbal tea. If you like it sweet, add some Stevia. Of course there is always water. Add some cucumber and mint or lemon or lime to it if you think it's too boring.
Get more anti-oxidants in your diet. Certain fruits, nuts, and vegetables likes cranberries, walnuts and red peppers to name a few help keep sugar from attaching to collegen....so that's a no-brainer.
oh and of course...don't forget the sunscreen!

Eyebrow Trends: The Good, The Bad and The Really Ugly

Are they kidding?
Take a look at these:

One of the so called eyebrow trends this spring is "The Darker The Better". If you are thinking about doing this to your eyebrows, please, call me first. I will not only talk you out of it, I'll help you get some therapy...


Other trends mentioned: "Messy Brows" (which has the potential to be interpreted in so many unflattering ways) and "Thin is In". For cryin' out loud! Do you know how many people are dealing with the aftermath of the thin brow "trends" of an earlier era? A plethora of eyebrow makeup was created just for these people.


Don't follow trends when it comes to the browage, people. Get them professionally shaped. By me or another capable Esthetician please! They should be groomed based on your facial features and the shape of your face not the trend of the moment.
Another trend I ran across? Simply brushing them straight up. I know...I don't get it either....

Aesthetic Oddities: Dermatographism

A picture I ran across on Pinterest recently:

Naturally, at first, this disturbed me some. Then I looked it up.


Wikipedia's definition:
Dermatographic urticaria (also known as dermographism, dermatographism or "skin writing") is a skin disorder seen in 4–5% of the population and is one of the most common types of urticaria,^[1] in which the skin becomes raised and inflamed when stroked, scratched, rubbed, and sometimes even slapped.^[2] It is most common in young adults, ages 20-30 during times of high stress or depression.


Dermatographism is caused by the weak membrane of the cells. In results, the mast cells, whenever are faced with stress or pressure, will break and release the substance called histamine. This is somehow similar to the allergic reaction (the release of histamine). 


Anyhoo, this has been happening to me forever and I just learned there is an actual name associated with it. It's amazing what you can learn on Pinterest huh?
People have been freaking out on me for years any time I inadvertently scratch myself and it leaves a scary, but temporary red, raised welt. I never thought of actually doing it on purpose as...art?
I guess I just don't have that kind of creativity or well, time on my hands......

Let's get physical....physical...

Oops sorry, I was just channeling my inner Olivia Newton-John....
Just wanted to share some facts I recently learned about chemical vs. physical sunscreens.

Summer is almost upon us and if you don't have your sunscreen arsenal stocked up, I want you to put that on your to-do list right now k?

Most popular sunscreens on the market nowadays have a cocktail of chemical ingredients in them.
**Here are just a few and what they do for your health:

Octinoxate (octyl methoxycinnamate) - an estrogenic chemical that has been linked to hormonal imbalance and increased rates of cancer.
Oxybenzone (a derivative of benzophenone) - a chemical that may cause hormone disruption. In Europe, products with 0.5% or more of this chemical must have the warning label "Contains oxybenzone."
Avobenzone- a free radical-generator that absorbs UV radiation energy and, since it cannot destroy it, converts the light energy to chemical energy, which is typically released as free radicals in the body.

Physical vs. Chemical

There is a TON of info out there about these two different types of sun protection. Google it. You'll get all kinds of research and statistics.
Here is the main difference as I see it:
Besides the effects of the previously mentioned ingredients, chemical formulas are typically cheaper and easier to produce. Research shows however, that they do not protect against UVA rays. UVA penetrates into the deeper layers of the skin and pose a huge threat for skin damage and skin cancer.

Physical blockers offer more protection against both UVA and UVB rays.
The two most common ingredients in physical blockers are:

Titanium Dioxide - derived from titanium and is a highly reflective chalky mineral. It's non-irritating, non allergenic and noncomedogenic, (which means it doesn't cause or aggravate acne)
Zinc Oxide - an inorganic compound and an essential mineral for the body. It plays an important role in cell production, promotes healthy skin and hair, boosts the immune system and provides broad-spectrum protection, which helps reduce UVA-induced free radical production. Zinc Oxide is not absorbed by the skin, it sits on the skin's surface blocking both UVA and UVB rays.

So PLEASE check your ingredients when you're out shopping for sunscreen. Look for the mineral formula's that contain Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide.
You could also look up your favorite sunscreen in the EWG's Skindeep database for information on how safe your favorite brands really are. http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/
Don't forget also that a big floppy hat and an umbrella provide even more sun protection....or a nice shade tree and some lemonade.....
Happy Summer!!!!

**Sources for ingredients: Skin Inc. Magazine May 2012

"Keep your friends close but your enemies closer..."

Six Enemies For All Skin Types.

Smoking. It's killing you. It's making you look old. Just Quit. Enough said...

Pollution. Avoid it whenever and wherever you can. Get an air filter, get a water filter. A guest speaker back in beauty school once said something I'll never forget: "If you don't get a filter, you'll BE the filter." This goes for toxic beauty products as well, don't intensionally use products laden with toxic chemicals. Read labels and educate yourself on healthier alternatives.

Abusive exfoliation/ overzealous cleansing. This only irritates the skin and makes it thinner and weaker. Use a gental touch and limit or avoid deep exfoliating agents. Regardless of what some in the beauty-biz will try to tell you, you do not need a medium depth, medical grade peel every month! Focus on building up the health of your skin, not peeling it off layer, by layer, by layer...

Alcolhol. Damn! No matter how good that wine is, practice moderation. Alcohol consumption dehydrates you from the inside out, taxes your liver and diminishes your supply of B vitamins. (Honestly not sure how I'm going to swing this one.)

Constipation. What goes in must come out. There I said it. Gross, I know. If your colon isn't eliminating waste and toxins efficiently they will find another way out: through your skin. Drink lots of water and eat a healthy diet with lots of fiber.

Sunlight. While you need 10-15 minutes of unprotected sun exposure daily for vitamin D absorbtion, don't let that be your excuse to "lay out" with baby oil and iodine. Wear a decent SPF when you're going to be spending more than 15 minutes out in the sun. You won't regret it.